Showing posts with label rtw. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rtw. Show all posts

September 29, 2012

Raf's Dior

Raf Simons commenced his reign over Dior, in terms of RTW, with a more different direction than past Dior collections. The Dior we knew in the past, under the mind of Galliano, was full of theatrics and exaggeration. It was abounded with glamour and luxury. I think when people thought of the return of Dior, they reminisced of the Galliano era. Galliano is an artist, and he had a mind like no other. He created beautiful collections that will remain in the hearts and minds of many who witnessed it; as well as in the history in fashion. However, that era has finished and a new one has begone. Raf stripped away the theatrics, and presented a sleek, fresh, and minimal collection, at least minimal for Dior. Raf demonstrated a different type of elegance, where less is more.

As much as I loved the collection, along with many others, there were others who criticized Raf and called his collection amateur and boring (these being regular on the Internet). They exclaimed to the heavens to ask for Galliano back. I was disappointed in people to expect for Raf to do what Galliano did for Dior. Galliano didn't only use the same style of designing for Dior, he also used it for his own label. I mean that's only expected seeing as that was his style. Galliano was all about the exaggeration, the drama, the bold looks; Simons is not that. Even though Simons doesn't like to be called a minimalist, it is safe to say that he is more of a minimalist than Galliano. Raf Simons has presented his idea of what the Dior woman is, and what she wears; different designer, different opinion. It is no surprise that Simons came up with something more minimal, after seeing his haute couture collection for Dior. I admit that I did criticize his Haute Couture collection, and stated that I was disappointed (for the exception of some pieces). However one night I understood. I was pondering in my thoughts when I realized what Raf Simons did. I think he remembered that Galliano didn't establish Dior, Christian Dior did. The work that made Dior famous during the New Look  wasn't the same work that Galliano presented down the runway. In 1962 Jackie Kennedy wore a Marc Bohan Dior dress, a long pink gown, I remember it quite well in my history textbook. That same pink gown reminds me of Simons collection. The solid color gown with a shining metallic material. Raf Simons is channeling Dior himself and other past Dior designers, because that is what Dior is. He is using them as inspiration and using his own vision to put together his mark for the house. 

The theatrics is a thing of the past, it is something that Alexander McQueen and John Galliano mastered when they both designed in the past. I notice how collections  become more minimal season after season. Fashion advances and I think the age of theatrics is over, at least for now. With more people wearing designer clothes and becoming more interested in them, clothes have become more wearable. The age of collections full of huge gowns is something we rarely see. I really feel like Simons understands that, and I feel like he creates such wearable clothes because he wants people to wear them. However his collection wasn't too entirely minimal. He created a collection for the modern yet futuristic woman. With metallic detailing in the shoes and dresses, he resonated a futuristic era. His last couple of pieces had long skirts with a floral print, and top was a shiny, metallic nylon that resembled fire, thunder, light, and water. The movement of the model created a different illusion in the skirt, and many other pieces had a included this shiny nylon to create the same effect. The shoes, with a perfectly shape heel, had a metal strap across the shoe which evoked a feeling of a galactic shoe. The bags were simple and soft, which in my opinion were the epitome of the elegance that Dior is. The jewelry was decadent, yet in parts was very futuristic, which is completely cohesive with the collection because the collection does resonate the future. I really do believe that this collection is true to the basics that Dior was founded on, but also reminds the world that a new creative mind is at work. This collection brings forth a new moment in history that will continue on the legacy that is Dior.



October 09, 2011

Chanel

Out of all, Paris Fashion Week is one of my favorites. Most of my favorite labels show at PFW, so it's exciting to wait for it. In my opinion, the Fashion World saves the best for last when they make the whole world wait for it to come. This month in fashion has been quite exciting, and so tiring to keep up with. The collections have been so great and wonderful, but Paris slayed the others this year. Paris was impeccable and so inspiring.

My all time favorite this year was Chanel. Chanel was fresh, sophisticated, sexy, artistic, and just powerful. Every detail was mastered to perfection. Warning the words perfection, flawless, and divine WILL be overused in this review.



The models seem to flow down the runway with such grace, almost like fishes swimming in the sea. This all correlated with the fact that the show was ocean themed. The clothes were mostly all pastel, or white. There wasn't as much black as Chanel usually accustoms to have, which I'm all for, but it was so refreshing seeing something different. The square prints shown above were quite intriguing because it was so retro and sixties. I usually am not a big fan of things classified as retro because it just isn't my taste, but the way this print was taken and modernized was phenomenal.



 For those who are into the mint fad (me included) would probably love this collection just because the color was so beautifully crafted into this collection. Actually any pastel color shined in the purity of the white set. For example the iridescent pieces pictures above were perfect because they stood out, yet they went with the theme as they seem to channel fish's scales. Color was a big component of the collection, since everything was really fresh and mellow that nothing could be too much or too little.



Chanel, like many other collections this season, displayed a pastel pink trend. I believe that it's a perfect color for Spring/Summer just because it's so soft, and isn't flamboyant to where it's almost a summer cliché. I think I like this trend a lot because I just bought a bunch of pastel pink clothes, so I can pretend that I am wearing Chanel and Givenchy. Okay I'm just going to take some time to praise the jacket pictured above (bottom right). This was my ABSOLUTE favorite piece from the show. If I had a job, I would save up to buy this jacket no matter how many meals I would have to skip in order to afford it. The color is just flawless. The material makes it look like a wonderful little pearl, and it would just be so perfect for Californian rain. Karl if you are reading this, I will sell my soul for that outfit. I am small enough to fit in it please. SEND THE SHOES AND PANTS TOO PLEASE! Zuzanna Bijoch is just so flawless that she could wear Missoni S/S 2012 and make it look good. (Im sorry I love Missoni just not their new collection, and it hurts me to review it so this is my way of letting out my feelings)


 

I think what I liked most about this collection was the variety that it offered. Even though collections should feature clothes that are similar in some shape or form, this collection was just so flawless that Karl could have thrown in a feathered dress it would still make some sort of sense. 



The use of the pearls in the picture above (top right) was also another favorite of mine. It was like the rebel of the show, because it showed off a tougher look with the leather jacket, but it was softened by the pearls and gave  it the sex appeal to make it erotic in a sophisticated way. The picture next to that is also an example of that I was talking about, how the pieces were so different from each other.. It resembles flowers, and you don't really see flowers in the ocean, yet it WAS STILL PERFECT! The color and it just the top's uniqueness made it so perfect and fresh. This collection was just fine, fresh, fierce in so many way.



The pieces above to me were the most sophisticated parts of the whole collection. They were so elegant, yet they were made out of such modern material that it almost made the pieces seem avant-garde. I think it was perfect, just because it made the collection that much more impressing. Seeing the way that simple, yet elegantly constructed dresses were brought to life from this mermaid wonderland in Karl's head. 


 The ending of the show was so flawless. I was so surprised when Florence popped out of a shell and started to sing "What the Water Gave Me" which was like my favorite song of the summer. He dress was so beautiful and resembled seaweed. She was perfect for the show because like many said she reminded everyone of the Little Mermaid, and I mean it just touched me in so many personal levels. 
 


The set was divine, and it was so elegant. It really made the show, because already from the beginning people could tell that this show was going to be like no other. I personally always like Chanel, but I always said that even though I liked Chanel, it didn't always stand out in my memory. This show was an exception, because I could not appreciate another show after watching this one. Louis Vuitton and Alexander McQueen were forgotten because this show captivated me so much.









The details were just so impressive. The shoes are so indescribable that they make me squeal as I type this. The way every model was transformed, because to me they were not the same models that I often worshiped. It was almost like Coco Chanel came back from the dead and blessed them all giving them this radiant glow. The aura that surrounded them was so powerful and god-like that it just had be in awe. 


The pearls on the model's faces, back, and hair was so great to see because I had done something similar back in sophomore year. My friend Aimee and I were so inspired by Gaga when she covered her face in pearls, that while backstage of a play that we were doing, we put little pearls on out faces. So sharing this moment of the show with her brought me back so many memories that are oh so dear to me. I am contemplating getting a nose piercing now, just so I can get a pearl in it.
 Saskia was also a big part of the show. She opened the show, which was a big surprise to me since Freja usually opens the show, and I loved it because she is one of my favorite models and it was great to see her in such a big position. I can only hope for her to be in the ads for this collection, hopefully along with Freja and Daphne since they seem to be Karl's favorites at the moment. 

 I am so excited to see what Karl does for this campaign. Chanel campaigns always seem to impress me and after such a flawless collection I can only hope for an equally flawless campaign to live up to the clothes. I love Fall and all, but now I can't wait for March!!!


Pictures were provided by VOGUE and Chanel.